Usually, when choosing a fur coat, the standard question arises: what is the quality of this thing. For all its simplicity and apparent unambiguity, very often, there is no understanding between the seller and the buyer, because the fur coat does not have such universal comparative indicators as “acceleration time to 100 km”, “number of pixels” or “suction power”, therefore, what is good quality (like happiness) in this case, everyone understands in his own way.

The only objective quality parameter is to wear resistance, the rest lies in an abstractly subjective field for some, quality is a fashionable design, a well-known brand, and original style, for others it is a country of production, for others it is fur, dressing, and sewing for fourth it is a service life.

Things to know before buying a Fur Coat


The value is determined by the thickness of the hairline, its height, softness, and the presence of shine. The most valuable fur is mink or sable. The quality of the mink varies in color, “density” and method of tailoring.

The cheapest mink- walnut, that is, light brown, then comes dark brown. Then – a variety of redheads, from juicy golden honey to light amber. Black mink, beige, gray and blue (also gray but with a grayish-blue tint) is even more expensive. In the next price category – the so-called “tourmaline” (beige undercoat and brown long hair, which creates an interesting smoky effect) and white fur (sometimes with gray hair). The most expensive to date – the mink “black diamond”, black with a blue or purple tint. An inexperienced buyer can find it difficult to distinguish it from just black. In addition, the furrier craftsmen learned to paint cheaper fur so cleverly that you won’t tell it at first glance: the fur also sparkles and shimmers. Method one: to spread the undercoat with your fingers (it should be purely black) and check the skin color.


The quality of a fur coat and other products directly depends on the wear of the fur. But it does not go bald, does not fade, does not wipe, neither rain nor snow nor even a crush in public transport is afraid of such a fur coat.

When assessing the quality of the fur, the following factors are taken into account: density, height, gloss, colorfastness, softness, and color of the hairline; softness, ductility and tensile strength of leather; the presence of defects. An important indicator of the quality of the fur is the wear, which is shown in the table. The otter fur has maximum wear (100 points and 20 seasons of socks before major repairs).







 River beaver



 Sea cat












 Arctic fox















Also, the fur coat should not be too light. In pursuit of lightening weight and saving fur, furriers often stretch: the thickness of the skin decreases, and the distance between the hairs increases, as a result, the fur collars coat becomes cold. The weight of the finished product depends on the length of the fur, the quality of the skinning and the presence of insulation. By the way, recently, insulation is either not used at all, or is used only in the chest and back. Fur coats from the skins of males are warmer, but the females are colder, lighter and more expensive.

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In terms of heat resistance, fur can be arranged in the following order: arctic fox, deer, raccoon dog, fox, wolf, hare, marten, sable, mink, columns, astrakhan. Poorly warms the fur of a sheared rabbit, goat, groundhog, ermine. And the hamster and gopher’s doesn’t warm at all. However, all these terms are relative, because some women manage to wear their astrakhan fur coat for decades and pass it on to their grandchildren in good shape.

Well, now let’s dwell a little more on the quality of the product.

How to determine quality?

The quality depends on the quality of the fur dress and the quality of tailoring.


In order for the skin to be suitable for sewing, it must be soft and easily bent. The nuances of dressing usually depend on the type and condition of the processed skin. To obtain the desired result, the skin goes through 4 main stages of processing: preliminary cleaning and soaking; removal of residual veins; tanning of the skin and final cleansing. Removing the protective hair (if necessary), peeling the treated skin to reduce weight and give it elasticity, stand out and are a separate technical operation.


In order to verify the factory origin of the product, first, smell it. “Self-made” emits a sharp, but also not a very pleasant smell. Next, doubt any part of the product, for example, a sleeve or a shelf. When unclenched, this piece should immediately take – the original form. Remember, the skin should be soft and the hair shiny and friable.

Then stroke the fur “against the coat”. Long hairs should not break, and the downs should be thick enough.

The easiest way to check the quality of mink fur for durability is to grab a few hairs with your fingers (as if taking a pinch of salt), raise the coat and shake a little. If the hairs do not break out, you have a reliable coat. You can also shake the fur coat and see how the villi show off. If the process is clearly not intense (after drying procedures it will “fly” from any fresh coat), then everything is fine.

Unscrew the lining and look at the leather fabric. In a good coat, it is soft, smooth and elastic. If the leather fabric is stiff, rustling or rattling at hand – then there is a high probability of poor quality and fragility of the coat.